Mersin is one of the leading cities in Turkey in terms of its cultural heritage. The richness of Mersin’s cultural heritage can be observed everywhere in the city.
In addition to the preserved works of civil architecture in the city centre, the works in the districts are indicators of this richness. The history of the region in which the city is located goes back to very early times. After the prehistoric, neolithic and chalcolithic ages, it is possible to see the traces of every period and civilisation in this region, including the Hittite, Persian, Greek, Roman, Eastern Roman (Byzantine), Seljuk and Ottoman civilisations and post-Republican civilisations. The most important reason for this is that the region is in an important geographical position that brings the Mediterranean civilisations together with the Aegean via Central Anatolia. Since the region is located on a commercial route, it is at a point where many different cultures interact.
The richness of Mersin’s cultural heritage is also traced to ancient mythology and literature. The ancient historian Herodotus says that the name Cilicia is connected with the Phoenician Cilix. According to the legend, Kiliks, the son of Phoenician king Agenor, came to Cilicia with his other brothers to search for his sister Europe after she was kidnapped by Zeus, but when he could not find her, he could not return to his country and settled in Cilicia and gave his name to this place.
Cilicia, the name of the region, first appears in Hittite texts in the 16th century BC as Chalaka together with Adaniya. Here, Adaniya refers to Plain Cilicia (the region from the Gulf of İskenderun to Mersin), while Chalaka refers to Mountainous Cilicia (the region extending from Mersin to Alanya). From the 15th century BC onwards, the name Qedi / Kedi appears in Egyptian sources to refer to the lowland part of Cilicia. Between 713 and 663 BC, Cilicia is mentioned as Chilakka (Hilakku) in Assyrian inscriptions. While Hilakku initially refers only to the mountainous Cilicia, it is later used for the whole of Cilicia. This period is also the time when Greek elements started to appear in the region. Archaeological traces of this process can be traced in cities such as Kelenderis, Nagidos, Aphrodisias, Soloi and Tarsos.
The first mention of Cilicia in Greek written sources is found in Homer’s ‘Iliad’, which is thought to have been written in the 7th century BC. From the statements here, it is understood that the Cilicians migrated from north to south to today’s Cilicia as a result of the oppression they faced. Strabo (1st century AD) also mentions the Cilicians in the region of Troy in addition to today’s Cilicia. According to Strabo, the borders of Cilicia extended from Alanya (Korakeison) in the west to the Gulf of İskenderun (Alexandria kat Isson) in the east.
Our comprehensive information about Cilicia belongs to the period after Alexander the Great. After Alexander the Great’s defeat of the Persians at Issos on the eastern border of Cilicia in 333 BC and the subsequent rule of Seleucus I Nicator, one of his generals, in the region, we see that an intensive reconstruction activity had begun. During this period, a comprehensive defence architecture (towers and fortresses) and temples were built to ensure the unity of culture and religion. Uzuncaburç Zeus Olbios Temple, built following Greek temple features, is of great importance in this sense. The Roman history of the region is very rich and there is a great increase in archaeological remains during this period. After Vespasianus became emperor, a major reconstruction plan started to be implemented in Cilicia during the continuity of Cilicia being a part of Rome and the long peace period. There was also a second period of reconstruction during the reign of Emperor Hadrian in the II century AD. Rapid development started to be seen in the cities established in previous periods.
It is possible to trace the traces of this historical process in Mersin and its districts. Not only necropolises with magnificent monumental tombs but also castles of the Hellenistic period, ancient cities on the coast, remarkable aqueducts and canals built for the water needs of these cities, ancient road routes between the mountainous area and the coast or rural settlements in the mountainous area create different travel alternatives. To discover all this archaeological richness, the fact that the region will enter the mountainous geography of the region increases the excitement of the discoveries to be made.
The centre of Mersin is home to a mound such as Yumuktepe, revealing thousands of years of Mersin’s history, and an important ancient city such as Soli Pompeiopolis. The ruins of the ancient city continue to be unearthed by excavations today. In the foothills of the Taurus Mountains surrounding Mersin, many medieval castles are well preserved and continue to protect and watch over road routes today. Çandır Castle, Gözne Castle and Sinap Castle stand out among them, and their presence emphasises the transit point character of the region since ancient times.
Erdemli and Silifke districts attract attention in terms of hosting the richest archaeological works of Anatolia. This place stands out with its archaeological remains and the impressiveness of its mountainous geography. In the Hellenistic period, the borders of the area, which hosted the Olba Temple State with its privileged form of administration, were drawn by two rivers. Along the river valley, the canals carrying the water to the coast on the walls of the valley can still be seen today in all its splendour. While travelling along the modern road on the coast, travellers are accompanied by the blue of the Mediterranean Sea on the one hand and the magnificent aqueducts on the other, which are perhaps a few hundred metres apart. It is known that the construction of these aqueducts started in the first century BC and their use continued during the Byzantine period with repairs.
Aqueducts from the Lamos Valley lead to the ancient city of Elaiussa Sebaste. The modern name Merdivenlikuyu is probably derived from the large cistern where the water was stored. The sarcophagi and temple tombs in the necropolis of the ancient city make it a special city. It is quite understandable that Elaiussa Sebaste, which is a very rich city with its theatre, temple, baths, gymnasium and churches through which water channels pass, solved the water problem for its vital needs with such magnificent architecture. Although the aqueducts were built as far as Elaiussa Sebaste (Ayaş) during the Roman period, it is understood that they were renovated and extended to Korykos during the Byzantine period due to the increasing importance of the nearby city of Korykos (Kızkalesi) and after it became one of the important harbours in the Mediterranean. It is located in today’s town of Kızkalesi, which takes its name from the castle on the island in the sea and is one of the most remarkable ancient cities of the region and one of the important harbour cities of Cilicia. This is the result of both the abundance and well-preserved archaeological remains and the beauty of its sea, sun and nature. It is understood from the ruins that different cultures lived together in the ancient city for long periods. Hellenistic tomb houses; Roman public buildings such as collonaded streets, monumental gates, temples and baths; numerous Byzantine churches and two medieval castles, one on land and the other on the island, indicate that the city was heavily inhabited throughout the ages.
Along the coast between the two rivers are the ruins of many other settlements such as Korasion (modern Susanoglu) and Akkale. In the mountainous area, there are rural settlements located in the back areas of the ancient cities on the coast. In this mountainous area, there is an important settlement organisation and related agricultural production starting from the Hellenistic period and continuing. It is understood that the valleys descending steeply to the sea were used as roads. What is interesting is that these ancient road routes are still in use today for seasonal migrations and it is possible to encounter villagers migrating seasonally with their herds of animals in the valleys, especially in spring and early winter months, just like in ancient times. It is known that castles were built in the area known today as Tisan in the Hellenistic period with the cooperation of the Priest Kingdom Dynasty and the Seleucids who ruled in the Territorium and that the defence function of these castles was replaced by agricultural production in the Roman and Byzantine periods and that these areas continued their existence as rural settlements. There are also many towers on these roads. Approximately 50 of these structures, most of which are known to have been built during the Hellenistic period and called Cilician towers, were identified during the archaeological research carried out in the region. It should be considered that these towers had a purpose beyond protecting the roads, such as controlling agricultural production.
The most striking site on the valley road route heading northwards from Korykos (Kızkalesi) is Adamkayalar, only 5 km to the north. This is a Hellenistic fortress built on the eastern edge of the Devil’s Stream Valley, at a point where the valley dominates Korykos. However, it was recognised and named as a sanctuary because of the reliefs on the valley wall just below the settlement. To reach the reliefs here, it is a difficult descent into the valley and then it is exciting to see these works of art carved on the rocks. The reliefs depict scenes such as a man lying on a kline and a woman standing next to him, a man and a servant, a man and a servant, a man holding a goat, warriors, a woman and a group of men and children standing around her, and the fact that they were made over approximately three hundred years shows the change in artistic understanding between periods.
Archaeological remains point to the production of olive oil and wine, which formed the basis of the ancient economy. The fact that olive oil and wine production took one of the most important places in the economy of the region is supported by both archaeological data found in the field and literary sources, and travellers can see evidence of olive oil and wine production along the routes they follow. These are the places where the famous Cilician wine mentioned by ancient writers was produced. Since the 4th century AD, the region of Cilicia has been known as a wine region (a centre for wines with many different flavours). Among the prominent products of the region is saffron. Strabo’s mention of the saffron grown in Korykion Antron (Heaven and Hell) near Korykos, shows the imprtance of the product in the region. Although saffron is not cultivated in the region today, it may be interesting for travellers to visit the impressive cave at Korykon Antron, where it was grown in ancient times, and to see the 6th century AD church inside.
Those who take this route visit many ancient ruins and reach Uzuncaburç (Diokaesareia), the centre of the region. This is an ancient city in the Taurus Mountains, with its well-preserved ruins, looking like a mirror of the period it lived in. The temple dedicated to Zeus Olbios indicates that the city was the residence centre of the priest-kings who dominated the region and the religious centre of the region during the Hellenistic period. It is thought that the roots of the worship here go back to earlier times and that the Luwi worship of the local peoples who were already here was continued. The temple, which has a peripteros plan and a temenos wall around it, has Hellenistic period features, but it can be observed that it continued to be used in later periods and was converted into a church in the early Byzantine period. One of the most remarkable artefacts in the city is the tower, which looks like a monument symbolising the power of the Priest Dynasty. Preserved at a height of 22 metres, the tower has at least five storeys and rooms, and the inscription on it indicates that it was built by Teukros, the son of Tarkyaris. The intertwining of the ancient city and the modern village allows visitors to observe the change of cultures throughout the periods. Two monumental gates, ancient roads, a theatre, a nymphaion (monumental fountain), the temple of Tyhche and tombs are the best examples of Roman construction activities here.
Today’s modern Silifke was an important city called Seleukeia Kalykadnos in antiquity. It is located on the banks of the Kalykadnos River (Göksu River) and was founded by Seleucus I Nicator in 295 BC. The most brilliant period of the city coincides with the Roman imperial period. Among the ruins of the city are the castle, a bridge over the Göksu River in the city centre, a large water cistern and a temple. The ruins of Meryemlik, located about 3 km west of Silifke on the road deviating inland from the coastal road, is a place of cross for Christians. The cave of Saint Thekla, the disciple and travelling companion of the Apostle Paulus, was among the most important places for the pilgrims. Today, the ruins of St Thekla’s basilica and its side buildings can be found in this area.
When you go towards the west of Silifke, it is possible to see the artefacts of cultural heritage accompanied by a magnificent Mediterranean landscape. The ancient city of Aphrodisias in the region called Tisan today was the scene of various settlements until the Middle Ages. The Christian basilica in the east of the peninsula is one of the most important examples of this period. The island, which was under the control of the knights in the Middle Ages, was abandoned in later periods. There is still no settlement on the peninsula. Today, protection walls, necropolises, basilicas, cisterns, remains of knights’ houses, water channels, ancient harbours and foundation walls of some buildings can be seen in Aphrodisias. The ancient city of Kelenderis in Aydıncık district is known as a harbour city of the region in ancient times. The monumental tomb called ‘Dörtayak’ in the ancient city can be seen quite intact today. The ancient city of Nagidos and Softa Castle in the Bozyazı district are among the prominent cultural heritage sites. The ancient city of Anemurium and Mamure Castle in the Anamur district are must-visit areas that are well preserved. Mut is home to many cultural heritage with its location on the transit routes. Among these, Alahan Monastery stands out. Alahan Monastery, 15 km north of Mut, is at an altitude of 1200 m and is also important as a pilgrimage centre in Christianity. The monastery complex includes the Cave Church, the West Church, the Colonnaded Road, the Baptistery, the Memorial Altar, the Monk Rooms, the East Church and the surrounding tombs. All these structures are connected by a collonaded walkway. The Eastern Church here is one of the most famous and best preserved churches of all of Cilicia’s churches.
Many efforts are underway to reveal and protect Mersin’s rich cultural heritage. Many cultural heritages in the region are of universal value and some of them are included in the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List. The uninterrupted succession of archaeological and cultural values in these sites, their unique character as they reflect a local characteristic, and their exceptional features make them special. All of them are registered as Grade 1 Archaeological and Natural Protected Areas according to Law No. 2863 and are under the protection of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism.
Text: Prof. Dr. Ümit Aydınoğlu, photos: İsmail Şahinbaş
WORLD HERITAGE MAGAZINE ISSUE 2 (APRIL 2024)